July 2026 Canlife Correspondence: Canada's Parks, Coastal Drives, Celebrations, & Creative Cooking!
The boat slowly pulls out of the marina and blasts a quick toot of the horn, as much for the tourists and tradition as to alert other boats. We motor past the breakwater and slowly pick up speed, cutting a clean V line through the calm morning sea. Within seconds we're cruising, taking in the tree covered isles of the Mingan Archipelago National Park Reserve, from our seats in the stern.
Suddenly, the boat slows and everyone, even the children, jump up,
fingers pointing, and scream, "FOCK! FOCK! FOCK!"
“Did they just say…?”
The boat isn't sinking, we haven’t hit a submerged ledge, no, all the excitement comes from the small group of harbor seals, “phoque,” which now surround the boat. The French word for seal sounds exactly like the word that escapes my mouth when I bash my head into a low hanging branch... happens more than it should, really.
Now why didn’t my five
years of French study cover some common names for marine mammals? You’ll have to talk to my amazing teacher,
Madame Sterns. Dogs (chiens), cats (chats),
livestock perhaps, but our course of study stuck a little closer to the farms
and fields of central Michigan than the salty granite coves of the Rivière
Saint Laurent (St. Lawrence River).
Seeing part of this coastline during travels to Newfoundland and Labrador before was no substitute for being here now. Last summer, after two weeks along the Straits of Belle Isle, we ducked into the easternmost portion of Quebec and drove south to the end of the coastal road in the tiny village of Old Fort. We met a handful of people, a few modest structures, a boat launch and a simple sign, “FIN.” We wondered what it would be like where the road ends from the other direction? Hwy 138 lacks 250-300 miles of Quebec’s Cote Nord (north coast of the St. Lawrence), leaving many villages accessible only by weekly ferries, private planes, or personal boats. The OTHER end, coming from the west, stops in the tiny, mostly English-speaking, town of Kegaska and we discovered it’s treasures this week -- answering last summer’s question.
Along the Cote Nord we’ve uncovered much more than we anticipated,
including the Mingan Archipelago National Park Reserve which boasts beautiful and
delicate monolith rock formations akin to the hoodoos common to Utah’s more
famous parks. Along the road, waterfalls plunge from
vast tablelands of the Canadian Shield formation -- nearly straight into the icy
waters of the seaway. Anywhere else,
these magnificent falls would attract worldwide attention, at least a viewing
platform, but here they are so numerous that we had to cautiously walk out onto
the narrow roadway bridge to catch a good photo. Whales
troll the richly productive waters in search of sustenance, which can be
abundant here in part because of the icy cold Labrador current coming down from
the north and the deep waters of the river. The islands and sea mounts cause nutrients to flow from the depths up to
the surface, which supplies the food chain.
On either end of the road, we’ve found similar ecosystems, and
landscapes, even the same plants. One gem
is the humble Cloudberry, Bake Apple (as they say in Newfoundland), or Chicoute (in Quebec
based upon an Innu word shekuteu, or fire). This plant produces a delicious raspberry-like,
orange fruit cluster that ripens in July and practically bursts into your mouth -- if you’re lucky enough to find one. For
many Quebecois, prized picking patches are carefully guarded, shared only on
their deathbed, because the fruit gives greatness sparingly. Only the female plant produces any fruit, and
only one single berry per summer from each stalk. Some summers are abundant; others are just duds.
But what lies between these two "FIN" road signs -- from Kegaska to Old Fort -- remains unexplored for us. While many Canadian politicians talk about completing the road between these signs, the reality is uncertain. Do the dozen or so villages reached by ferry even want the road? While certain opportunities will no doubt come from such infrastructure, not the least of which would be more RVers like us, but what would be lost with such an “improvement?” These communities are some of the earliest established western European settlements in the region and they’ve been going without a road for a very long time. Perhaps a future bike packing trip along this coastline will help us fill in the blank spots, hop on the ferry, spend some time in each community along the way, or possibly even kayak between the granite islands in fairer weather.
When we hear someone say “phoque,” it still makes us giggle inside, but there’s so much more experience in that word now than could be measured in a high school French vocab quiz. There will always be more roads that we cannot reach, always more coastlines or mountain ranges to put on a bucket list, always more adventures to discover if we’re lucky enough to keep this rolling lifestyle up! While checking into a small campground on our first night on the Cote Nord we were asked where we were from. “North Carolina,” we replied. “You’re lost!” she laughed. Exactly...but, look what we've found!
- 300Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery that has nearly 6X the energy storage.
- 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter to run multiple AC appliances.
- 50A DC to DC Charger with MPPT to regulate the solar charge AND recharge effectively while driving.
- 200W ShadowFlux Solar Panel to the roof that produces power, even in shady conditions.
- 300A Battery Shunt for wireless monitoring.
Is your camper OLD or just made to look OLD? It's a funny question we get from hundreds of people at campgrounds, gas stations, grocery store parking lots, and just about anywhere else. For the record, Hamlet prefers "OG" or "vintage" as he's 69 years young now!
- Sat, Aug 22: Kickoff Saturday and America 250 Grand Pix
- Sun, Aug 23: Safety Sunday
- Mon, Aug 24: America in Motion Monday
- Tue, Aug 25: National Park Service 110th Birthday & Fee-Free Day
- Wed, Aug 26: Watch Wildlife Wednesday
- Thu, Aug 27: Thankful Thursday
- Fri, Aug 28: Freedom Friday
- Sat, Aug 29: Staff Saturday
- Sunday, Aug 30: Junior Ranger Day
A long day on the road can often be the tipping point between wanting to make a delicious home cooked meal or simply saying, “let’s just go out tonight!” With gas and campsite prices skyrocketing, one easy way to travel on a budget is to redefine what it means to dine out!
Doing some food prep before your road trip will help you stick to your budget, your dietary goals, and requires less prep and clean-up so that you can just enjoy the journey you’ve worked so hard to plan! Read our tips in RV Trader Magazine...
But, the freedom to explore and enjoy these gorgeous natural locations comes with an incredible, yet simple, responsibility. We need to tread lightly and advocate for these places so they remain accessible to us and the next generation of RV & camping enthusiasts.
For all you planners out there, we thought we'd give you a heads up where we'll be speaking next winter. Whoop whoop...we just scheduled 5 RV shows -- with 2 NEW ones for 2027*! Join us...we'd love to see your smiling faces in our audience. Seminar topics TBD by each show.
- Greensboro, NC*- Jan 8-10
- Grand Rapids, MI - Jan 14-17
- Charlotte, NC - Feb 5-7
- Raleigh, NC - Feb 19-21
- Milwaukee, WI* - Feb 25-28
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