For us, Baja California conjures up images of a nomadic paradise, hundreds of miles of isolated sandy beaches, quiet roads, warm days, cool nights, and all the solar gain we could want. This is a Shangri-La winter destination for many van dwellers, RVer's, and snowbirds, and earlier in the year we'd thought, “maybe?” With the necessary limitations on international travel, it's off limits at least until next year; but, could the Texas Gulf Coast be an interesting alternative for a socially-distant winter camping adventure?
Padre Island National Seashore
I have to admit that I wasn't in a good mood; I wanted to travel, but just felt stuck. Shari was giving me the space to just be. Pandemic numbers were up, restrictions were in place, we'd just driven across the Midwest after dealing with an epic truck fiasco in November that cranked up my anxiety to 11 -- all I wanted was to stay put. So when our friend Chris suggested that we get out of New Mexico and go down to
Padre Island National Seashore, in Texas, for some beachside camping, we were like, "Do you have any idea how far away that is?"
Now Chris doesn't really care about how far a drive might be, especially if it involves being outside in weather that works with tank tops and flip-flops. He's as enthusiastic as a new puppy and you just can't help take a bit of that in when you're around him. His enthusiasm and the predicted cold weather moving in nudged me in the right direction. We gave he and his fiancé, Jess, a head start and they arrived a few days before us to check things out.
We had assumed that because Texas has limited public lands (BLM, Forest Service, Park Service) that our options for camping would be limited to state or RV parks. We rarely stay in the former and completely avoid the latter. But we were so delighted to be wrong, wrong, wrong.
Just across the bay from Corpus Christi, Texas, this area protected by the National Park Service offers much more than we could take in on a day-trip. With over 70 miles of beach (considered a state highway in Texas) to drive and
camp upon, this scenic national treasure protects the longest stretch of undeveloped barrier island in the world. Yes, you read that right, in THE WORLD! It separates the Gulf of Mexico from the Laguna Madre, one of the few hypersaline lagoons in the world. In addition to protecting coastline, dunes, prairies, and wind tidal flats (and all the wildlife within it), this island offers one of the more chilled out vibes of any park we've visited in this country. Unlike some of the more adventurous and diverse parks across the continent -- the pace here is more attuned to fishing, capturing ghost crabs on camera, strolling on the beach, watching coquina clams burrow back into the sand, following coyote tracks, and drinking margaritas. If that sounds appealing, then the drive is going to be worth it. Tip! Be sure to bring plenty of drinking water, food, your
solar panel, and an appropriate way to bury or carry out your poop. You will be miles from the nearest facility once you are out on the sand.
We are not sure we would have had the confidence to pull Hamlet with our new truck, Lotus, onto the softer sand without having a friend with another 4 wheel drive truck and a tow strap. But we didn't end up needing it, she did great towing and even backing Hamlet slightly up hill into a small cove in the dunes. It was an awesome spot and we stayed for over a week!
If you don't have 4 wheel drive, or don't want to spend an hour cleaning the sand out of every crevice in your vehicle when you leave the island, then the two more traditional campgrounds in the park (Malachite & Bird Island Basin) are your choices. While closer to a glorified parking lot, the nearby beach makes up for what charm the campgrounds lack. Besides, you're not there to sit around the campi site anyway, go for a swim already! In 20 minutes you can find more treasures washed up from the sea than you can imagine. Pro Tip! Go to the afternoon Park Ranger program at the Visitor's Center to learn the names of the creatures before heading out on your own. Armed with this knowledge, your seaside walk will turn into a nature scavenger hunt! Also, this area is prone to storm surge trash, so do your part and pick up a bag or two -- it not only looks better, it truly helps the critters survive as many birds and sea mammals die each year as a result of eating too much plastic and Styrofoam.
A Birder’s Paradise
Birds have it all figured out -- cruise the northern hemisphere until you find the right temperature and keep your luggage minimal. While we like to vary it up a bit more than most bird species who keep making the same flights between summering / wintering habitats, their heads are in the right place. Many species choose this area as their winter home, including one of the rarest birds of all, the endangered Whooping Crane who’s breeding adult population number is in the low 500’s. We were stoked to see a few, even got a flyby complete with whoop...whoop...whoops!
As Naturalists and Outdoor Educators, we love to discover new environments, ecosystems, and species. It's our Disneyworld. While we don’t get too obsessive about our running bird list, we are pretty excited to have added 19 new species in less than 2 weeks, including: Forster’s and Royal Terns, Roseate Spoonbills, Curlews, Pied-Billed Grebes, Gallinules, and many more. We've been lucky enough to have a few Nat Geo moments of epic fish catching maneuvers, too! The Great Texas Birding Trail is a loose connection of birding sites strung from Beaumont to Laredo. Take in a few, or follow the whole darn thing. Here are some helpful sites to get you started:
If you too are a wildlife lover, here are a few other places to consider nearby:
Leonabelle Turnbull Birding Center, Port Aransas Nature Preserve – Great for seeing many species all at once, short walk along elevated boardwalk to viewing area. Future plans include biking and walking paths. And, if you are lucky, you might see a gator.
Aransas Wildlife Refuge, Near Rockport, TX – This vast area is open only during the day-time hours, but offers a vast habitat for many wintering birds and especially the Whooping Crane. Established in 1941 to protect the 15 remaining wild birds, this refuge has played an essential role in helping bring the wild population numbers up to 506 (according to a 2019 survey). Look for the "King of the Marsh" too! Did you know that alligators drool?!?
Magnolia Beach & Indianola Beach Dispersed Camping Near Port Lavaca, TX – This small seaside village wins the award for chillin'. There ain't much going on here, except for some great beachside free camping for up to 14 days. The county park offers enough space for dozens of RVs and tents, they even have bathrooms with showers, all at no cost. This area is couched between the Gulf and a huge wetland area that attracts numerous birds.
Not Bad for NOT Being on Our Bucket List, Y'all!
Gulf Coast Texas wasn't in the plan for this winter, but we're so glad that we checked it out. We thought maybe we'd be here for a week, but three have gone by and we still haven't turned back westward. We don't know why we should be surprised....every single time we arrive at some place with undeveloped wildness, of which we have little to no preconceived ideas, we are always blown away...
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