December 2025 Canlife Correspondence -- Southern Vibes, Solstice Sales, Sunshine, & AirSkirts
On a Mission to 57!
America's 63 national parks are just a small part of the 433 sites managed by the U.S. National Park Service. It's just a number, right? Why should we spend so much of our time, energy, and resources getting to explore as many as we can? Our previous total was 55, but in that number lies all the experiences that we've had while exploring each park, which shape our lives and enrich our story. This winter, Dry Tortugas (#56) and U.S. Virgin Islands National Parks (#57) are new threads in that story.
Now, even the short-term reader of this newsletter couldn't fail to miss how we embrace the great joys of un-planned and slow wanderings. But, these past couple of weeks have been more akin to a well-organized siege.
We started this mission during the summer, while boondocking at the northern end of the road along the North American east coast in the tiny Canadian village of Cartwright, Labrador. One morning in late July, Shari awoke with an idea. "What if...?" she whispered, as I slowly awakened from my second morning snooze. "What if...we drove from here to the furthest place south in the US -- then head out to the national parks still on our bucket list?"
That's my wife, y'all...while the rest of us are just dreaming, she's busy making plans.
We dove into some research. Reservations for the Dry Tortugas ferry and campsites in the Florida Keys (within a reasonable price point AND drive to Key West) seemed in short supply. We had a narrow window to get here from the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina where we spent Thanksgiving with Shari's folks, especially if we wanted to accomplish it all without suffering through the chaos of I-95. The good news for other later planners is that we were delighted to find several open off-grid campsites at our RV resort on Big Pine Key, and even a few unclaimed seats on the daily ferry. But camping out on Dry Tortugas? Those sell out within minutes -- even 6 months out!
With any tightly packed itinerary, worries arise, and a different "what if" game consumes my mind and robs my sleep. What if we have car trouble? What if our short term parking space doesn't work out? These are "first world" worries, to be sure, but worries nonetheless. Thankfully, they vaporized as Garden Key, the island on which the wide, red brick walls of Fort Jefferson and the only bit of land of the 64,700 acre Dry Tortugas National Park rose from the azure waters of Florida Bay. Lying some 70 miles off the coast of Key West, it's both difficult and expensive to visit this park. But...was it worth it?
This little island with an impossibly huge 19th century fortification (the largest masonry structure in the western hemisphere) looming over 90% of the island is unlike any other national park in our country. Bricks were brought in from the Florida mainland, and later from Maine when the civil war broke out! Named "Tortugas" on the nautical charts of 17th century Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de Leon, for all the turtles that his crew caught there, and "Dry" because of the lack of fresh water. Second to "Florida," it has the longest uninterrupted place name in the United States.
The fort laid its foundation in 1846 and for the following 30 years master masons, laborers, and prisoners artistically brought up each course of these 6-foot thick walls. The fort was never fired upon, nor fired a single shot from its 450 gun ports in anger. Construction was eventually halted, and the fort repurposed until it was eventually abandoned. So what purpose did it serve?
The island lies in a strategic location between the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico. During the early 19th century the U.S. more than doubled its territory and needed to place a chess piece between the old world imperial powers who wielded control in the Caribbean, and the burgeoning economy. America was finding its stride.
But it's not just the history of the place which makes it so spectacular. It's a winter location for the magnificent frigate bird and many other migratory water fowl, and the surrounding crystal clear water, coral reefs, and abundant ocean life make snorkeling a must!
Our visit to the park on the Yankee Freedom ferry boat was all too short (about 4.5 hours on the island), but would have been even shorter if we'd sprung for the more expensive 40 minute sea plane excursion which only allows for 2.5 hours of island time. What?!?
And, the planning for this December didn't stop there! We're finishing this newsletter from the latitude of 18 degrees north along the shores of the U.S. Virgin Islands National Park (sans Hamlet this time). We're here with Hutch's father and sister for the Christmas holidays, while combining a bit of work and pleasure. This is officially our 57th national park, and we're excited to dive into its rich history (with over 3,000 years of human presence) and spectacular environment -- in this case, in a more literal way. And, of course, to slow our pace down to "island time" for a couple of weeks.
We wish you all a happy holidays at whatever latitude you may be spending them this year!
Winter Solstice may be the shortest day of the year, but for those of us who run our lives nearly 100% with solar power, it's a day we always celebrate! The number of sun hours per day is on the rise even as the temperatures plummet!
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The Best Hike of My Life!
We see a white haze peek from behind the small outcropping of wet, slick rock. As we ascend the last few steps, the view opens up to reveal what seems like a world of ice stretching out in every direction. The Harding Icefield isn’t a single glacier. It covers the mountains for as far as the eye can see. In every direction, its fills an immense valley between rocky peaks with ice that simply go on...and on...and on. Defying both understanding and description, this view can only be reached in a hearty 3-hour hike from the nature center! Read more in RV Trader Magazine...
Just a Bit of U.S. Virgin Island History
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